Time-warped fish and chips at old Harry's

Byline: John Avison

The centre of the Ramsden empire is a delight or disappointment, depending on your perspective. The Guiseley restaurant is Blackpool tacky in a 1950s way, not exactly run down, just unchanged since Vera Lynn's heyday.I found later that Harry's name is attached to three dozen outlets all over the UK, that Granada motorway services paid pounds 20m for the chain and that Swedish corporation EQT Partners now own them. The point is, I was expecting something a bit more, shall we say, 21st century.You half expect Sooty and Sweep to pop up behind the counter and take your order. That's not a random thought - Sooty and Sweep inventor and Harry Ramsden's nephew, Harry Corbett, lived just a mile or so down the road and used to come in to play piano on an evening.Guests are greeted by a giant mural of three drunken sailors and three equally debauched women enjoying a rowdy game of cards, lit by a giant chandelier made of wine glasses.The menu changes daily, with local fish and seafood among the star dishes. A starter of delicious deep fried whitebait with harissa mayonnaise (pounds 6.95) or main courses such as a fricassee of seafood with organic red rice (pounds 10.95) or a fillet of salmon, buttered spinach and crayfish butter sauce (pounds 14.95) were some of the delights on offer.* While not directly involved in the GPS development, continued strong advocacy in the Pentagon 1973-1978On the menu Diners have the choice of eating in the 83-seat Bistro - in one of the finest restaurants for miles around - or enjoying an al fresco meal on the hotel's terrace.It's like eating in a museum. If you wanted to film a cafe scene set anywhere from about 1930 to 1970 you could do it here without changing or hiding a thing. Harry Ramsden's is the real time-warp deal.Past the bar is a fully-equipped, vaulted wine-tasting room, complete with authentic brass spitoons, where regular events are held for guests keen to try out a vintage wine or two.Despite having strong connections with that part of Bradford I had never - until last weekend - darkened Harry Ramsden's door. Pretty much on a whim, last weekend, however, we called in en route to a magical mystery tour of the autumnal Dales.And the Tower Park complex on the outskirts of Poole has a water centre, a 10-screen cinema, bowling alley, play area and amusement arcade.

OLD TIMES: Harry Ramsden''s at Guiseley, Bradford